My Day of Hardly, Strictly

It's Hardly Strictly Bluegrass weekend out in San Francisco. I've only been to the festival once, about ten years ago -- my, how time flies! -- but I was reminiscing tonight about my one and only experience of this event. It's a big happening out there, but when you're from Kentucky, it's a little like carrying coals to Newcastle to attend an event like this. That's the reaction I got from someone I worked with, who had a good laugh about the idea of me flying to the Bay Area to hear bluegrass music. I guess it was pretty funny, at that.

True to its name, though, HSB is a very ecumenical event, meaning, as far as I can tell, that almost anyone is likely to show up. Their mainstay may be venerable old-time musicians like Hazel Dickens, Emmylou Harris, Willie Nelson, and Del McCoury, but Hammer has played there, too.

At any event, I found myself heading out for coffee with my SF friends on a cold and foggy Saturday morning, having arrived the night before with insufficient layers. I had to borrow a heavy, slouchy jacket and was told it made me look more like a native -- I'm not sure how, exactly, but it was gratifying to know. When we started heading in the direction of Golden Gate Park, the gray skies were still lowering, and it was quite chilly. Nonetheless, we took the scenic route, since my pocket guide suggested a walking tour of some of the hipper sights of the Haight, which I had never seen.

We walked up and down a couple of streets, finding houses once occupied by Janis Joplin and the Grateful Dead. We took pictures of ourselves at the corner of Haight-Ashbury (though the big chain fashion store at that location was a surprise) and climbed to the top of Buena Vista Park before stopping for another coffee break. By the time we got to Golden Gate Park, it was late morning, still chilly, and still gray. We entered a large meadow fringed by trees and settled down on a blanket to hear Gillian Welch.

There were simultaneous acts on other stages and enormous crowds everyplace you looked. It was a real ocean of humanity, but in general, people behaved decorously and seemed really to be there for the music. There were attendees of all ages, and kids and dogs everywhere. When we got up to move to another stage, the fog was lifting, and it was showing signs of becoming a fine afternoon. It was one of those days you often see in San Francisco that seem to roll at least three seasons into one, starting out cold and turning summery before cooling down again. Indeed, I had to peel off two layers and apply sunscreen before the day was over.

The most unequivocal bluegrass act we heard that day was Ricky Skaggs and Kentucky Thunder. I have seen Mr. Skaggs at a folk life festival in Kentucky, where I passed him on the sidewalk. At HSB, he was on a big stage some distance away from us but performed a spirited set in fine style. It was great fun to sit in that crowd of people of all ages, races, and persuasions and feel them respond to the down-to-earth energy of bluegrass. The single image that sticks in my mind is of a young man awash in a complicated outfit seemingly made entirely of filmy pink and purple scarves, dancing joyously and uninhibitedly to the rapid-fire rhythms of Ricky Skaggs' band. That was something you'd likely not see in Kentucky and was probably worth the trip.

We left the park around four o'clock and caught a bus somewhere out on Fulton to head back toward the inner city. A group of teenage girls got on sometime after we did (they had not, I take it, spent the afternoon at HSB), talking animatedly amongst themselves. Just before we got off the bus, I heard one of them say disparagingly, of a popular song they were discussing, "It's so old. It's probably two years old."

That tickled me. For awhile, it had seemed that everyone and his brother was in Golden Gate Park, sipping wine, listening to old-time music, cross-referencing articles in No Depression, and nodding when the names Doc Watson and Ralph Stanley were mentioned . . . so this was a wake-up call. It's true, not everyone in San Francisco is a bluegrass aficionado (and the same is true in Kentucky). I came away with a sense of worlds colliding. HSB is a place where many fans with extremely sophisticated and complex tastes will sit on the grass to hear music of very humble origins played with consummate musicianship. Just beyond its borders, teenagers listen unconcernedly to the newest sounds and have never heard of Earl Scruggs. But someday, one of their current favorites will probably take the stage on another foggy morning.

The fun continued on my journey home, when I happened to sit next to Jimmie Dale Gilmore on the plane. I might not have suspected it was him except that I knew he'd performed at the festival. Unfortunately, something had possessed me to seek out an exotic lunch to take with me on the plane, something to extend the multicultural experience. It's not every day you eat a pungent falafel sandwich while sitting next to a legendary Texas country blues performer on a plane, but that happened to be my day for it. That's San Francisco for you. Hopefully, he's forgotten it by now.